South of Budva, where the Montenegrin coast begins to relax into something quieter and more sun-drenched, two very different places sit within half an hour of one another. Petrovac is a small, intimate resort built around a curve of reddish sand and a Venetian fortress. Bar is a working port city with ferries to Italy, a railway climbing inland towards Belgrade, and one of the most atmospheric ruined towns in the Adriatic hidden in the hills behind it. Together they make an easy and rewarding pairing for anyone exploring Montenegro's southern riviera.
Orientation and getting there
Petrovac and Bar lie on Montenegro's southern Adriatic coast, strung along the main coastal road that runs from Budva down towards the Albanian border. Both are well connected and easy to reach without a great deal of planning.
- By air: Tivat Airport is the closest, roughly 40 minutes to an hour from Petrovac by car. Podgorica Airport is a little further but also serves the region well, and both handle seasonal and year-round flights.
- By car: The Adriatic Highway links the whole coast. Petrovac to Bar takes about 25 to 30 minutes; Budva to Petrovac around 20 minutes. A car gives you the freedom to reach the quieter beaches and the inland sights.
- By bus: Montenegro's coastal bus network is frequent and inexpensive, with regular services connecting Budva, Petrovac, Bar and Ulcinj.
- By rail: Bar is the southern terminus of the celebrated Bar to Belgrade railway, one of the most scenic train journeys in Europe.
Petrovac: a small resort with a big heart
Petrovac is the kind of place travellers fall for quickly. The town hugs a single sheltered bay, with a palm-lined promenade running the length of the seafront and a beach of fine, reddish-brown sand that gives the water its distinctive warm glow. It is compact enough to explore entirely on foot, and the gentle, family-friendly atmosphere is a deliberate contrast to the buzz of Budva up the coast.
The beach and the Kastio fortress
The town beach is the heart of Petrovac, sheltered by green headlands and backed by cafes and restaurants. At its southern end stands the Kastio, a small Venetian fortress built in the 16th century to guard the bay against pirates and Ottoman raids. It is a short, easy climb up to the ramparts, and the reward is one of the finest views on this stretch of coast: the whole sweep of the bay, the islets offshore and the pine-clad hills behind. The fort is a wonderful spot at sunset, and in summer it sometimes hosts open-air events.
The two islets: Katic and Sveta Nedjelja
Just offshore from the bay lie two small islets that have become Petrovac's emblem. Katic is the larger, while Sveta Nedjelja (Holy Sunday) carries a tiny chapel said to have been built by sailors in thanks for surviving a storm. They are beautiful to look at from the promenade or the fortress, and on calm summer days local boatmen offer short trips out to them.
Beyond the town: Lucice and Buljarica
Part of Petrovac's appeal is how easily you can escape it. A short walk south over the headland brings you to Lucice, a small, pretty cove with calm, shallow water that is popular with families. Continue a little further and you reach Buljarica, a long, broad and notably undeveloped beach backed by greenery and a coastal wetland. Buljarica is one of the wilder, more natural beaches on the riviera, a favourite with those seeking space and quiet.
Bar: port city with an ancient soul
Bar is a different proposition entirely. This is Montenegro's main port and one of its largest coastal towns, a place of working harbours, ferries, markets and everyday life rather than postcard-perfect old streets. The modern town along the water is functional rather than picturesque, but it is the gateway to some genuinely remarkable sights and a key transport hub.
The port and ferries to Italy
Bar's harbour is the busiest in Montenegro and the country's main maritime link to the wider world. Regular ferry services connect Bar with ports in Italy, most notably Bari, making it a popular arrival or departure point for travellers combining Montenegro with an Italian leg of their journey. Sailings are seasonal in frequency, so it is worth checking schedules in advance.
Stari Bar: the ruined old town
The real treasure of Bar lies about four kilometres inland and uphill, at the foot of the mountains. Stari Bar (Old Bar) is a sprawling fortified town whose origins reach back well over a thousand years, layered with Illyrian, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman history. Much of it was damaged by an explosion in the late 19th century and later by earthquake, and today it stands as a vast and evocative ruin: roofless churches, crumbling palaces, an aqueduct, hammams and winding lanes, all enclosed within thick defensive walls and watched over by surviving towers.
Wandering through Stari Bar is one of the most atmospheric experiences on the Montenegrin coast. You can climb to viewpoints over the whole site, look out across the olive groves to the sea, and end your visit in the small cluster of cafes and craft shops that have grown up around the entrance gate.
The old olive tree at Mirovica
On the edge of Stari Bar, in the area of Mirovica, stands one of the oldest olive trees in the world, widely held to be over two thousand years old. Its enormous, gnarled and hollowed trunk is a living monument to the olive culture that has shaped this region for millennia, and it is protected as a natural treasure. It is a short detour from the old town and well worth the visit, a reminder that the olive groves around Bar are among the most important in the country.
The King Nikola palace and the railway
Back in the modern town, near the marina, the palace of King Nikola is a graceful late 19th-century royal residence set in gardens with a small botanical collection brought back by Montenegrin sailors from their voyages. It now houses a local museum and makes a pleasant, shaded stop. Bar is also famous as the southern end of the Bar to Belgrade railway, an extraordinary feat of engineering that climbs from sea level through tunnels and viaducts into the mountains. Even a short ride inland gives a sense of the dramatic landscape, and the full journey is considered one of Europe's great rail trips.
Where to stay and eat
Petrovac is the more obvious choice for a holiday base. Accommodation is dominated by small hotels, family-run guesthouses and apartments, much of it within easy walking distance of the beach. It suits couples and families looking for a relaxed seaside stay. Bar offers a wider range of practical, town-style hotels and apartments and works well as a base if you are arriving by ferry or train, or if you want to explore the southern coast and the inland sights.
For eating, the coast plays to its strengths. Expect fresh Adriatic fish and seafood, grilled meats, locally pressed olive oil and the wines of the Crmnica region just inland. In Petrovac, the seafront restaurants are the natural gathering point; in Stari Bar, the cafes by the old town gate are a lovely place to pause.
Best time to visit
The high season runs from June to August, when the beaches are at their liveliest and the sea is warm. For many travellers, though, the shoulder months of May, early June and September are the sweet spot: comfortable temperatures, warm enough water for swimming, and far smaller crowds. Stari Bar in particular is best explored in the gentler light and cooler air of late spring or early autumn, as there is little shade among the ruins.
Practical tips
- Combine the two: Base yourself in Petrovac for the beaches and make a half-day or full-day trip to Bar and Stari Bar.
- Wear good footwear at Stari Bar: the ground is uneven stone and there is a steady climb to the best viewpoints.
- Bring sun protection and water: both the fortress at Petrovac and the ruins at Stari Bar offer little shade in summer.
- Check ferry and train schedules ahead: sailings to Italy and longer rail services vary by season and can sell out in peak months.
- Currency is the euro, and cash is still handy for smaller cafes, market stalls and boat trips to the islets.
Petrovac and Bar capture two faces of southern Montenegro in a single short stretch of coast: the gentle, sun-warmed charm of a small resort, and the deep, layered history of an ancient port. Take them together and you come away with a fuller picture of this beautiful and still wonderfully unhurried corner of the Adriatic.
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