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Four-fifths Muslim and two-thirds Bosniak, at the head of the Lim: a timber mosque of 1471, a fortified tower nobody can date, and Montenegro’s largest glacial lake under the wall of Prokletije.
Plav er en fjellby ved kanten av en gletsjø som bærer samme navn, satt mot det dramatiske bakteppet til Prokletije-fjellrekken, kjent som de forbannede fjellene. Gletsjøen Plav har Hrid, en karakteristisk steinet øy som stiger fra vannene. De omliggende toppene, som når over 2500 meter, tilbyr krevende foturer og uberørt alpint landskap langs grensen med Albania. Plavs moské fra ottomansk tid og multikulturelle arv gjenspeiler århundrer av mangfoldige påvirkninger i dette fjerntliggende nordlige hjørnet av Montenegro.
The north emptied. Plav did not.
Population change 2011 to 2023, Plav and seven northern neighbours
Thirty-one people fewer across twelve years. Rožaje is the only northern municipality that grew; Plav is the only other one that essentially held, while Pljevlja lost 6,652 and Plužine a third of everyone it had.
Europe gave Plav to Montenegro in 1878 and Plav stayed Ottoman until 1912. Widths are to scale.
A day in the basin
A working town of four thousand under a national park
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Treaty of Berlin, 1878 · Milosević 2013 · Morrison 2018 · Tourist Organisation of Plav.
Plav ligger ved bredden av Plav-sjøen helt øst i Montenegro, i dalen til øvre Lim under Prokletije-fjellene og nær grensen til Albania. Det er omtrent to timer med bil fra Podgorica.
En bresjø på rundt to kvadratkilometer på 906 moh., matet av Ljuča og drenert av Lim. Den er grunn, omkranset av enger og siv, og brukes til båt og fiske heller enn bading — vannet holder seg kaldt.
Den høyeste og villeste kjeden i Dinaridene, delt med Albania og Kosovo og ofte kalt De forbannede fjell. Den montenegrinske siden ble nasjonalpark i 2009, og Plav er en av de to hovedportene inn.
Redžepagić-tårnet, et befestet steinhus flere hundre år gammelt, og sultanmoskeen fra 1471 er de to landemerkene. Byen har et tydelig bosniakkisk og albansk preg, synlig i arkitekturen og på tallerkenen.
Peaks of the Balkans, en langdistansesti som binder sammen Montenegro, Albania og Kosovo, går gjennom området. Kortere dager går til Ali pasjas kilder, Hridsko-sjøen og stølene i liene over dalen.
Juni til september, når høystiene er bare og stølene i bruk. Vinteren er streng og interesserer mest randonnéfolk. Grensepasseringstillatelser for de grensekryssende rutene må ordnes på forhånd.
Nei — den nærmeste er Podgorica lufthavn (TGD), 114 km unna langs vei.
12,7 km langs vei, omtrent 20 min med bil.
Det britiske utenriksdepartementet (FCDO) fraråder ikke reiser til Montenegro; rådene ble sist gjennomgått 13. august 2026. Det er deres vurdering av landet som helhet, ikke vår og ingen dom over Plav — les den selv før du reiser. Nødnummeret i Montenegro er 112.
Plav i tall
the municipality in the 2023 census; the town itself 4,121
the town; the lake below it lies at 907 m and the ridges above it pass 2,500 m
the Carska, or Stara, džamija — turf and timber, 14 × 8 m, a 10 m wooden minaret out of the roof, on the Meteriz rise inside the old Dizdarev grad
the Lim leaves Lake Plav, Montenegro’s largest glacial lake, and runs to the Drina — Black Sea water; 19.3 m³/s here, 71.0 at Dobrakovo on the Serbian border
Prokletije was made a national park; Zla Kolata, 2,534 m, is the highest point in Montenegro
species recorded in the park — the richest bird list of any massif in the country, alongside over 1,700 plants
MONSTAT 2023 census, municipality and settlement tables · Tourist Organisation of Plav · Prokletije National Park · National Tourist Organisation of Montenegro
De nærmeste stedene rundt Plav, plassert der de faktisk ligger – Rožaje ligger omtrent 33 km unna i luftlinje.
Skjematisk. Plasseringer og avstander er i luftlinje, basert på koordinatene vi har for hvert sted; fjellveier gjør kjøreturen lengre. Den tykke linjen er kysten der den går gjennom dette utsnittet. Kystlinje og Skadarsjøen © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Noen timer
Three monuments and a lake, all within a walk. Two hours cover the town.
En hel dag
Monastery, garden and lake make a full day without leaving the basin.
En helg
The town is the base; the reason to stay two nights is above 1,900 m.
The centre
Best for the Meteriz rise with the Carska džamija on it, both towers, and the square the festival takes over in July
The lake shore
Best for the splav bathing raft, pedal boats and kayaks, a few minutes below the centre, and the light on the water at dawn
Brezojevice, 2 km out
Best for the Sv. Trojice monastery and the Velemun garden; 746 people at the 2023 census
Vojni Grad and Bogajići
Best for villages on the way up — Bogajići is where the two-hour winter walk-in to the Paljevi ski slope starts
Hvem besøker Montenegro
Andel av utenlandske gjesters overnattinger, 2025
MONSTAT · 2025
Folketellinger, Plav kommune
On today’s borders the municipality counted 9,081 people in 2011 and 9,050 in 2023 — thirty-one fewer, where its neighbours lost thousands. The 2023 census gives 65.64% Bosniaks, 17.08% Serbs, 9.43% Albanians, 4.11% Montenegrins and 2.61% ethnic Muslims; Gusinje, the south-western third of the old territory, has been a municipality of its own since February 2014.
What Montenegrin outlets have reported from Plav and the park above it. Paraphrased, not quoted.
CdM Šućo Redžepagić, born in the Redžepagić tower and living in it until 1978, curates the museum it became — and says there is no exact record of when it was built.
CdM Montenegro and Albania open the joint Zatrijebačka Cijevna–Grabon crossing on 3 August, connecting Podgorica to the Plav–Gusinje basin through Albania.
Borba Prokletije national park has been visited by 14,000 tourists, the paper reports at the end of August.
Pobjeda A new attraction for Prokletije: the Via ferrata Volušnica is being built.
RTCG The 26th Dani borovnice closes on 4 August with thousands of visitors at the events in Plav.
CdM National Parks reports Prokletije admissions up 24 per cent from January to mid-August, second only to Lovćen among the five parks.
Dated items from named Montenegrin outlets, 2021–2026.
I mellomtiden, i 1912
Plav, 1912: the Montenegrin army enters the town on 19 and 20 October, in the First Balkan War. Thirty-four years after the Treaty of Berlin awarded Plav and Gusinje to Montenegro on paper, the transfer happens on the ground.
Why it took so long — on 4 December 1879 a League of Prizren force under Ali Pasha of Gusinje beat Marko Miljanov’s Montenegrins at Novšiće, a village down the Lim from here. The Berlin cession was abandoned and Ulcinj was handed over on the coast instead.
The cost — the military administration that followed the entry lasted until March 1913 and is recorded as up to 1,800 killings, mostly of local Muslim Albanians, and 12,000 forced conversions to Orthodoxy.
The sequel — in 1919 the Plav rebellion rose against Sandžak’s inclusion in the new Kingdom; about 450 local civilians were killed when it was put down, and Albanians left the valley for Albania in numbers.
“Who raised the Redžepagić tower has not been established with certainty.”
The tower’s date
The Tourist Organisation of Plav writes it that way, gives 1671 and Hasan-beg Redžepagić as the reported date, and records a tradition placing the tower in the 15th century under Ali Muče, raised against the Kelmendi. The curator Šućo Redžepagić told CdM in 2021 that the stone part may be older still and that the pine čardak went on in the 17th century — while the family itself is documented as arriving in Plav only in the 1650s.
“They say the fairies bathe in it.”
Lokal legende
Hridsko jezero, the lake of happiness
janPaljevi — the ski slope on Kofiljača: half an hour up a gravel road, or two hours on foot through snow from Bogajići; one cable lift of about 300 m, room for some 150 skiers, and roast potatoes at the Zuvdijin konak cabin
maiLimska regata — three days and three rafting stages, starting from the rafts on Lake Plav and running down the Lim through Andrijevica, Berane, Bijelo Polje, Prijepolje and Priboj; late May or early June, depending on the water
julDani borovnice — the town’s own festival, in its 26th edition in 2026, when it ran from 13 July to 4 August: the pickers’ caravan, a blueberry harvest inside the national park, a fair with tasting on Trg Plav, folklore from across the north, and a hydro-avio regata on the lake rafts
augBostanijada and Festival kolomboća — the watermelon and corn fair — 23 August in 2026 — with the Visitor hike on the 22nd and Kajaking Ljučom on the 29th
sepPlavski književni susreti and the Likovna kolonija — held in September by the Husein Bašić Centre for Culture, which calls the Susreti the oldest literary event in Montenegro after Ratkovićeve večeri poezije; the Prokletije Trail runs 18–20 September in 2026
Den lokale tallerkenen
The blueberry is what Plav is known for outside Plav. It is picked on the Prokletije slopes inside the national park in July, tasted and sold as juice and jam at the agriculture and handicraft fair on the square, and gives its name to the three weeks that are the town’s year — Dani borovnice, which closes with the crowning of Mis borovnice.
Hvor The fair on Trg Plav during Dani borovnice; on the mountain, the katuns above the lake
Beste reisetid: juni · juli · september
| Sted | Langs vei | Kjøretid |
|---|---|---|
| Murino | 12,7 km | ca. 20 min |
| Gusinje | 13,2 km | ca. 21 min |
| Andrijevica | 24,7 km | ca. 34 min |
| Berane | 42 km | ca. 57 min |
| Podgorica | 84,3 km | ca. 2 t 8 min |
| Budva | 143,2 km | ca. 3 t 24 min |
| Kotor | 155,1 km | ca. 3 t 35 min |
Veiavstander beregnet på OpenStreetMap-data, © OpenStreetMap contributors. Kjøretidene er uten kø og tar ikke hensyn til sommertrafikk eller venting på fergeleiet.