
Trg Slobode belongs to the working middle of modern Budva, a couple of streets back from the sea in the part of town that carries on regardless of the season. This is where the pharmacy, the bakery, the fruit stalls and the small bars are — practical, unpolished, and a useful counterweight to the resort strip. Everything radiates from here on foot: the seafront one way, the bus station and the market the other, and the old town walls a short walk along the shore at the western end of the bay.
Give the mornings to the water. Slovenska plaža stretches east from the marina in a long shallow arc of fine pebble with hired shade and a promenade behind it, while Mogren — reached by a narrow path cut into the cliff past the old town — is the more dramatic option, two coves under a rock face, best before ten. Evenings belong to the walled town, where the lanes fill after sunset and the Citadela ramparts stay open late enough for the view down the coast. For food, the fish places around the marina are the reliable choice; the grill restaurants inland are cheaper and busier with residents than with visitors.
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