Nikšić

Niksic sits in a broad karst plain in west-central Montenegro, about 50 km north-west of Podgorica and roughly an hour from the coast at Herceg Novi. It is the country's second city, with around 55,000 people, and the road hub for Piva, Durmitor and the Bosnian border.

Beer, above all — the Niksicko brewery has worked here since 1896 and its name is on tables across the region. Beyond that, it is an industrial and university town, and the natural base for reaching Ostrog monastery and the northern mountains.

King Nikola's palace, now the regional heritage museum, and the cathedral of St Vasilije Ostroski above the main square. Carev Most, the Emperor's Bridge over the Zeta, dates from the 1890s. Trebjesa, the wooded hill behind town, is the local walk.

Three reservoirs ring the town — Krupac, Slano and Vrtac. Krupac is the swimming one, with a sandy shore and shallow water that warms quickly in summer, and it is where the town goes on a hot afternoon. All three are minutes from the centre.

About 25 km, or half an hour by car, which makes Niksic the closest town to Montenegro's most visited monastery. Many visitors come up from the coast for the day, but staying in Niksic means reaching Ostrog early, before the tour buses.

It is a working town rather than a sight in itself, but it is the practical gateway to Ostrog, Piva, Durmitor and Vojnik. Break the journey here for the museum, the lakes and a beer, and you will have seen what Niksic is about.