Žabljak

Zabljak is the gateway to Durmitor National Park and the highest town in the Balkans, at about 1,450 m. It is the base for the Black Lake, Durmitor's peaks and the Tara canyon, and doubles as Montenegro's main winter sports town.

By car it is about 2.5 to 3 hours from Podgorica, either via Niksic or on the scenic Tara canyon road through Djurdjevica Tara. Buses run daily from Podgorica and Niksic. The nearest airports are Podgorica and Tivat.

Crno jezero is Durmitor's best-known glacial lake, about 3 km from Zabljak and easily reached on foot. A level circular trail of roughly 3.5 km runs round it through pine forest with the Meded peak rising behind — the most popular easy walk in the park.

Yes. Savin Kuk and Javorovaca serve the town, with a season that generally runs from December or January into March depending on snow. The runs are limited next to the Alps, but lift passes and rentals are inexpensive and the setting is spectacular.

June to September for hiking, rafting and the lakes, when the days are mild and the passes are clear, or December to March for snow. May and late autumn can be wet and many places close. Nights are cold year-round at this altitude, so bring layers even in summer.

Walk or cycle round the Black Lake, hike to Bobotov Kuk or the Ice Cave, drive the Sedlo pass, raft the Tara river, cross the Djurdjevica Tara bridge and zipline the canyon, and seek out the ring of glacial lakes scattered across the massif.