A few hundred metres from the centre of town lies Čudna šuma — the strange forest — a stand of conifers twisted and stunted by wind and snow into shapes that look almost deliberate. It is the local afternoon walk: flat, easy, five minutes from the last shops, and in winter threaded with cross-country tracks. Around it the plateau spreads out at roughly 1,450 metres, the Durmitor ridgeline closing the horizon to the west and the road to Crno jezero leaving town in the same direction.
North the ground falls away into the Tara canyon, some 1,300 metres deep and the longest in Europe, spanned by the stone arches of the Đurđevića Tara bridge — a half-hour drive that takes in viewpoints, a zipline across the gorge and the rafting put-ins used through spring and summer. Back in town the centre keeps everything within a short walk: supermarkets, bakeries, grill places serving lamb and kačamak, and the agencies selling jeep tours into the park. The altitude means cool nights even in August, and a clear morning here has a light the coast simply does not get.
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