
Food is one of the better reasons to linger on the Durmitor plateau. This is katun country, where families still move livestock up to summer pastures, and the results turn up on local tables: skorup and young cheese, kačamak and cicvara made with cornmeal and cream, priganice with honey, lamb or veal cooked slowly under a metal bell. Late summer brings wild blueberries and forest raspberries down off the slopes, sold in jars along the roadside, and the plateau's honey is dark and strong.
The town itself is small enough to cross on foot in fifteen minutes, and its low houses with steeply pitched roofs are built for snow rather than for looks. From the last streets the plateau opens straight into the national park: the walk to Crno jezero takes well under an hour, the Ledena pećina ice cave keeps its formations through the summer, and the road north drops toward the Tara and the bridge at Đurđevića Tara. Žabljak's altitude — around 1,450 metres — keeps July afternoons mild and August nights genuinely cold, which is much of the appeal for anyone escaping the coast.
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