
Eating is one of the quiet pleasures of this part of Herceg Novi. Topla's konobas and family restaurants sit along the shore road and the promenade, and the cooking is Bokelj rather than generically Mediterranean: fish grilled whole and served with blitva, chard boiled with potato, garlic and olive oil; mussels from the bay done in buzara; small fried sardines; pršut cured in the wind off the hinterland. The green market in town is worth an early trip for figs, pomegranates and cheese carried down from the mountain villages.
The address is well placed for that kind of pottering. The shore is a couple of hundred metres downhill, the Old Town about a kilometre east and Igalo the same distance west, all of it linked by the Pet Danica promenade so you rarely need the road. The climate keeps the season long here: swimming holds into October, and February's Mimosa Festival gives the town a burst of life in midwinter. Between those poles, spring and autumn are when the stepped lanes, the fortresses and the coastal path are at their best — warm, green and largely uncrowded.
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