
Trsa is a highland katun settlement on the Durmitor side of the Plužine municipality, a scatter of shepherds' cottages and hay meadows well above a thousand metres. Summer here is short and intense: wildflower meadows, cattle brought up from the valleys, cold mornings that burn off into hard mountain light. The Sedlo pass road climbs past on its way over the Durmitor massif, one of the most spectacular drives in the country, and trailheads for the plateau's peaks and glacial lakes begin within easy reach. Nights are properly dark, which makes the sky worth staying up for.
Below, the Piva reservoir fills its canyon with improbably turquoise water beneath near-vertical forested walls, and the descent to Plužine hairpins through a run of tunnels cut straight into rock. From the town you can reach the 16th-century Piva monastery, moved stone by stone and frescoed wall by frescoed wall before the valley was flooded, and to the north the Tara canyon rafting put-ins. Food in these villages is whatever the season provides — kajmak and cheese from the katuns, lamb, wild berries and mushrooms picked on the slopes. Come between June and September; outside that window the snow decides the schedule, and the high road over Sedlo closes without much warning.
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