Set a few streets back from the water in Šušanj, this is the everyday side of the Bar coast rather than the postcard one. The neighbourhood works on a small scale: a bakery, a greengrocer, a couple of cafés where the same people sit each morning, and gardens heavy with vine, kiwi and citrus that throw enough shade to make August afternoons bearable. The slope means most terraces catch some sea view, and the walk down to the shore takes only a few minutes through quiet residential lanes.
The beach below is shingle, backed by pines, and long enough that even in high season you can find a stretch to yourself early or late in the day. Bar proper is a short hop south and worth the trip for its ordinary life as much as its sights — the fruit and vegetable market, the marina, the port where the overnight ferry leaves for Bari in southern Italy. Inland, Stari Bar occupies a hillside about four kilometres up: a whole ruined town of churches, cisterns and Ottoman-era houses under the mountain, with cafés at the gate. Sutomore's wider beach lies just north, and Skadar Lake's reed channels are an easy morning's drive.
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