A few kilometres out from the centre of Bar, the coast breaks into small coves where a single house may have the whole shoreline in front of it. That is the situation here: a private stone beach on a bay, no promenade, no through traffic, and nothing much between the terrace and the water except olive, fig and oleander. Swimming means walking down and stepping straight in off warm rock rather than crossing crowded shingle, and the sea in these coves stays remarkably clear because there is nothing upstream of it.
Days organise themselves around the light. Mornings are for the water before the sun gets serious, the middle of the day for shade and a long lunch, evenings for a grill outside while the bay goes dark and the fishing boats put their lamps on. When you want other people, Bar's centre with its market, marina and ferry port is a short drive, and the bigger shingle beach at Veliki Pijesak is closer still. Further afield, Stari Bar's ruined hillside city, Skadar Lake National Park and the sand at Ulcinj all fall comfortably within a day trip, which is the argument for keeping a car here.
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