
Kralja Nikole is Podgorica's long commercial spine, running east from the centre through a mix of shops, offices and older residential blocks; this end of it puts you about a kilometre from the main square. The best thing within a minute's walk is the green market — stalls of tomatoes, figs, pomegranates, sheep cheese, njeguški pršut and mountain honey, busiest before nine in the morning — with a food shop beside it and the main bus station under a kilometre off.
This part of the city is a good place to eat plainly and well: grills, bakeries and family konobas serving lamb, and fish brought up from the Morača and Skadar Lake. From here the capital's set-piece excursions are all straightforward — the lake at Virpazar for boat trips through the lily beds, Ostrog monastery pressed into its cliff north-west of the city, and rafting on the Tara in the far north. In the city itself, walk west to the Morača gorge, where paths drop to shingle beaches beneath the bridges and locals swim through the hottest weeks of the year. Evenings belong to the terraces, which stay full until the heat finally lets go.
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