
Wide, plane-shaded and unhurried, Bulevar Josipa Broza Tita belongs to the Podgorica laid out after the Second World War — a part of the city of apartment blocks, small parks and neighbourhood bakeries rather than monuments. It is a workable place to be based: the boulevard connects quickly to the ring road and the exits toward the coast, the airport and the north, while the centre with its squares, galleries and café terraces is a modest walk or a very short taxi ride away.
What makes the capital worth a night or two is what lies within an hour of it. Skadar Lake, the largest in the Balkans and a Ramsar wetland thick with pelicans and water lilies, begins south of the city at Virpazar, where boats leave for the island monasteries. Ostrog, built into a vertical cliff face, sits north-west on the road toward Nikšić and draws pilgrims year-round. Cetinje, the old royal capital, is forty minutes up the mountain road, and the Cijevna river drops over a broad ledge just east of town in a fall that runs hard in spring. Closer in, the Zeta plain vineyards produce most of Montenegro's wine, and cellar visits are easily arranged from the city.
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