
Perast was built by captains, and it is still a town best understood from the water. Small boats leave the quay all day for Our Lady of the Rocks, five minutes offshore, and if you take one out yourself the whole inner bay opens up: the Verige narrows where chains once closed the channel, the cypress-covered island of St George, the shallow green water at Risan, and coves under the cliffs that have no road to them at all.
On land the town measures about fifteen minutes end to end, with a waterfront closed to through traffic, more than a dozen churches, a scattering of palaces and three small museums, one of them out on the islet itself. Swimming is straight off stone platforms into deep water. Because Perast is compact and the parking sits outside it, most guests leave the car alone for days and move by boat or on foot. Kotor is 13 kilometres around the shore, Tivat airport around 20, and the ferry at Kamenari cuts across the bay for anyone heading towards Herceg Novi or the southern beaches.
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