The main square is the one piece of open ground in Perast, and it belongs to the church of St Nicholas — an unfinished seventeenth-century project whose bell tower still rises some 55 metres over the roofs, with a treasury of seafarers' gifts inside and a staircase to a view that takes in the whole double bay. Around it the town keeps a scale that never changes: stone houses shoulder to shoulder, oleander and wisteria in the gaps, and a waterfront where cars are not allowed.
This square is also where Perast's calendar happens. On 15 May the town marks the defeat of an Ottoman assault with the gađanje kokota, rowing out to shoot at a cockerel set on the water; on 22 July boats circle Our Lady of the Rocks at dusk for the Fašinada. Outside those dates it is quiet enough by ten in the evening to hear the sea against the quay. Everything else is a short walk or a short boat ride away — the islets offshore, the museum in the Bujović palace, swimming platforms along the shore, and stepped paths climbing behind the houses towards St Elijah Hill and the half-abandoned hamlets on its slopes.
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