
Obala Kapetana Marka Martinovića is Perast's only real street — a stone waterfront named for the captain who taught navigation to Peter the Great's officers, which is a fair summary of what this town once was. It runs level along the water for less than a kilometre, closed to through traffic, with palaces on the landward side and terraces on the seaward one, most of them near enough the edge that spray reaches the tables in a southerly wind.
Life along it is unhurried and largely aquatic. Bathing is from concrete platforms and small stone beaches rather than sand, the water is deep and cool where springs feed the bay, and by late afternoon light comes back off the far shore in a way that keeps people out on the promenade until dark. Kitchens here stay with the bay's own produce: mussels and oysters farmed a few kilometres up the coast, whole fish off the grill, olive oil from the hillsides. Boats leave for Our Lady of the Rocks throughout the day, and the town museum in the Bujović palace, the churches and the climb up the bell tower fill the hours between swims.
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