
Perast is a two-level town, and this address is on the upper one — fifty-odd steps above the waterfront, in pine wood, where the noise of the quay does not reach. The hillside behind is the flank of St Elijah Hill, 873 metres of limestone that shades the town in winter and sends stepped paths up through old terraces, cisterns and half-ruined summer houses. Follow any of them for twenty minutes and the bay lays itself out below: the Verige narrows, the two islets, the ferry line, mountains folding away towards Kotor.
Sea level is a few minutes' descent. Swimming is from stone and concrete platforms, with a small beach a little further along the shore, and boats reach Our Lady of the Rocks in about five minutes. What most people notice after a day or two is the quiet — no through traffic on the waterfront, few visitors once the coaches leave in late afternoon, and water that goes glassy at dusk. Kotor is a quarter of an hour by car around the shore, Risan's Roman mosaics slightly less in the other direction, and the road towards Grahovo climbs off the water into bare limestone country within a few kilometres.
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