
Behind this part of Kotor the ground goes almost vertical. The limestone flank of Saint John's hill rises straight off the rooftops, and the city fortifications climb it in a long zigzag visible from most of the town. The stepped route up is the classic Kotor half-day: roughly 1,350 steps, a small church dedicated to Our Lady of Remedy about two thirds of the way, and a view that flattens the whole amphitheatre of the bay into something like a map. Go at first light or late afternoon, and carry water.
The mountains keep giving beyond that. The old caravan trail known as the Ladder of Cattaro switchbacks up the same slope towards Njeguši, the village that cures Montenegro's best-known prosciutto, and carries on into Lovćen National Park. Across the water, the Vrmac ridge offers an easier walk with the bay on both sides. Back at sea level, the market, the restaurants and the waterfront are a few minutes away, and boats run through the summer to Perast and the two islets that sit in the middle of the bay.
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