
Škaljari is where Kotor stops being a monument and becomes a town people actually live in — a residential quarter at the foot of Vrmac, just beyond the Old Town's southern walls, with bakeries, shops, a petrol station and a bus stop within a couple of hundred metres. The walk into the Old Town takes about fifteen minutes along the water, past the marina where yachts moor beneath the fortifications, and the return trip after dinner is flat and well lit.
The position is also the most convenient in Kotor for getting out. The road south climbs over the Vrmac ridge and drops to Tivat, where the airport is a short drive and Porto Montenegro's waterfront makes an easy evening; carry on and Budva's beaches are inside forty minutes. In the other direction the coastal road follows the bay through Dobrota and Orahovac to Perast, where boats shuttle out to Our Lady of the Rocks. Above Škaljari the old Austrian road switchbacks towards Njeguši and Lovćen National Park, the whole bay opening up behind you at each turn. Back at the house, a terrace and a grill make more sense than a restaurant on the hot evenings when the stone inside the walls holds the day's heat.
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