
Watching ships turns into a genuine pastime on this shore. Everything entering the Bay of Kotor has to thread the Verige narrows and then turn in front of the old town, so cruise liners pass at close range through the summer mornings, followed by fishing boats, yachts and the small local ferries. From the Muo waterfront the whole manoeuvre plays out like theatre, with the mountains as backdrop and the town's fortifications running up the slope opposite.
The village itself is green in a way the limestone around it is not: oleander, palms, lemon trees and vines in small walled gardens, with the mountain rising steeply behind the last row of houses. A quiet shoreline lane runs south to Prčanj, where a huge domed church stands above the road, and on towards the chestnut woods of Stoliv. In the other direction it is two and a half kilometres around to Kotor. Swimming is straight off the stone piers into deep water, and on most mornings the bay is calm enough to see the bottom.
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