
Step two streets back from the seafront and Bečići changes character. Alekse Šantića and the lanes around it are where the settlement actually lives: houses with vine-shaded yards, a bakery open before six, a butcher, small shops selling tomatoes and figs from the hinterland, neighbours who know each other's cars. It is quieter than the shore, noticeably cooler in the evening, and still only a few minutes' walk from the sand — the trade most people are happy to make once they have spent one August night on the front.
That sand, nearly two kilometres of it in one long bay, is the reason the town exists, and it remains among the busiest and best-kept beaches on the riviera. From its northern end a coastal path reaches Budva in about half an hour, past the marina and in through the gate to the citadel, the churches and the narrow flagstone streets; from the southern end the same path runs to Rafailovići and its fish restaurants. Inland the hills rise fast toward Brajići and the old Austro-Hungarian road to Cetinje, a drive worth doing once for the view back down over the whole Budva bay. Buses on the coastal road connect Bečići to Kotor, Petrovac and Bar, and Tivat airport is roughly twenty-five minutes away.
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