
From the hillside above the Splendid the whole bay reads at once: the curve of the shore below, the hotel roofs, Sveti Nikola island offshore and, on clear evenings, the glow of Budva around the headland. Ive Lole Ribara runs along this slope, five to ten minutes above the water on foot — enough height for a breeze in August, and enough of a view to justify the climb back up. The land here is still partly gardens and olive terraces, so the walk down passes stone walls and fig trees rather than construction hoardings.
Self-catering suits the area. Supermarkets and small greengrocers are a few minutes away, and in summer the produce is genuinely local: tomatoes and peppers from the Zeta plain, figs and grapes off the hillsides, cheese and pršut from the Njeguši villages on the Lovćen road, olive oil from Bar and the Luštica peninsula. Fish is easiest to buy at the market beside Budva's marina, two kilometres north. When cooking loses its appeal, the beachfront strip below runs from pizzerias to full konoba menus, and Rafailovići at the southern end of the bay is where locals go for grilled fish. The beach itself is sand for its whole length, with a coastal path linking Budva's old town to Rafailovići without ever leaving the sea.
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