This is Bar at its most open: the seafront edge of town, where the promenade, the park and the beach all run together. On one side stands the former royal residence of King Nikola, now the town museum, its gardens full of palms, magnolia and trees carried back by nineteenth-century ships; on the other, sports courts and green space give the shoreline an unusual amount of breathing room for a working port city. Evenings belong to the korzo — the whole town walking the waterfront slowly, ice creams in hand, until the light goes.
The beach along this stretch is shingle and stone, with the horizon wide open towards Italy, and the sea deep enough close in for proper swimming. Within a few minutes you have the marina, the port where the overnight ferry sails for Bari, and the railway station for the spectacular climb inland through tunnels and viaducts towards Podgorica. Bar's food is worth attention — olive oil from the groves behind town, fish from the harbour, and the Sunday market with produce off the Skadar Lake plain. Stari Bar, the ruined city on its hillside about four kilometres inland, makes the natural half-day trip, ideally in the cooler hours.
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