
Vrbanj lies in the hinterland above Herceg Novi, at around a thousand metres on the flank of Orjen, and the drive up from the coast is the first thing worth doing: twenty-odd kilometres of switchbacks that trade the sea for beech woods, karst pasture and stone shepherds' huts in the space of half an hour. Orjen is among the wettest mountains in Europe, and that rainfall shows in the vegetation, with meadows of medicinal and aromatic herbs, black pine, and stands of munika on the higher slopes.
This is walking and cycling country. Marked trails climb toward Zubački kabao and the summit plateau, past sinkholes, snow pits and the old Austro-Hungarian military roads that lace the massif, and from the ridge the views take in the whole Bay of Kotor on one side and the Bosnian mountains on the other. Temperatures run well below those on the coast, which makes this a practical retreat from an August heatwave and a genuine winter destination once snow settles. The villages nearby keep their own rhythms of grazing, smoking meat, making cheese and distilling rakija, and the sea is still close enough for a beach afternoon if the mood changes.
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