
The streets climbing behind Sutomore's seafront are where the town actually lives — small houses with vines over the parking space, a bakery that opens at six, a market, and the sound of the beach carrying up faintly from three hundred metres below. It is an unpolished, functional sort of holiday neighbourhood, and it keeps the cost of a coastal summer close to what Montenegrins themselves pay.
The beach is the main business of the day: a long sweep of grey-gold sand, shallow and warm, with pedalos, umbrellas and a line of cafés along the back. When it fills up in August, the coves north towards Ratac and the shingle at Crvena plaža south of town give you somewhere else to go within a short drive or a determined walk. Above everything stands Haj-Nehaj, the ruined fortress on its limestone spur, reached by a rough path through maquis in about an hour. Bar and its ferry port are ten minutes down the coast, Petrovac twenty minutes north, and the Belgrade–Bar railway stops in town — a useful detail if you fancy an afternoon inland at Virpazar on the edge of Skadar Lake without driving anywhere.
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