
Few coastal towns in Montenegro are as easy to use without a car as Sutomore. The bus station and the railway halt are both a short walk from this part of town, the supermarkets are around the corner, and the beach is five minutes away on foot — which is why the town has always drawn people who arrive by train from Belgrade or Podgorica and simply stay put for a fortnight.
Used as a base, the day trips are unusually good. Skadar Lake, the largest lake in the Balkans and a wetland full of pelicans, waterlilies and half-hidden monasteries, is under an hour inland, with boat trips leaving from Virpazar. Stari Bar, the ruined Ottoman-Venetian town beneath Rumija, is twenty minutes south and takes a couple of hours to wander properly; the old olive tree at nearby Mirovica is claimed to be more than two thousand years old. Closer still, Sutomore's sandy beach runs the length of the bay, backed by cafés and rental umbrellas, and the small coves towards Ratac give you somewhere to swim when the main strand fills up. Evenings are simple here: a walk along the front, grilled fish or a plate of ćevapi, and prices that surprise people arriving from Budva.
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