
Below the Bar–Ulcinj road at Dobre Vode, the hillside drops through olive terraces to Veliki Pijesak, a shingle bay whose water is clean enough to swim in from May to well past September. Through the summer, small tourist boats call at the beach most days, and taking one is the most enjoyable way to see this coast: coves with no road access, the beaches at Utjeha and Maljevik, and the longer runs of sand towards Ulcinj all become an afternoon rather than an expedition. Back on shore, the beach has showers, loungers, a lifeguard service and a row of places to eat fish under an awning.
By land the position works just as well. Sutomore and Bar lie a short drive north, Ulcinj with its clifftop old town and Ada Bojana's sandbar to the south. The area's landmarks are close together: Stari Bar's ruined hillside city under Rumija mountain, the ancient olive at Mirovica that locals count in millennia, and the palace of King Nikola on Bar's waterfront, now a museum in a garden of palms and eucalyptus. Late autumn brings the olive harvest across these slopes, when small presses along the coast road sell oil straight to whoever turns up.
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