
The fishing village that owns the view of Kotor — three kilometres of shore, fifty stone berths, and the body of a fisherman Rome calls blessed.
Muo is a quiet fishing village strung along the western shore directly opposite Kotor, so close that you can sit over coffee in near silence and watch the cruise crowds swarming the Old Town ramparts and St John's Fortress across the water. Its waterfront is a working line of traditional stone houses stacked up the hillside, small boats, and fishing nets hung to dry on iron hooks, an unhurried, genuinely local scene that has changed little in generations. The modest Church of St Nicholas holds the waterfront, its bell tower reflected in the still morning bay. There is no classic sandy beach; instead, flat rocks and small pebbly inlets serve as swimming spots that locals have used for years, with deep, clear water. The great pleasure of Muo is simply being across from Kotor without being in it. A short boat-taxi ride, or a roughly ten-minute drive around the inner bay, brings you to the Old Town, the crossing offering a memorable view of the floodlit city walls and the fortress climbing the mountainside behind. Boat taxis here tend to run informally, so it is best to flag one down and ask your skipper when the last boat returns. A handful of good waterfront konobas serve fresh-caught fish and seafood almost at the water's edge. Muo lies only a couple of kilometres from Kotor's Old Town and around fifteen minutes from Tivat airport. It suits travellers who want authenticity and tranquillity within touching distance of the headline sights, who would rather watch the bay from a quiet terrace than join the throng, and who appreciate that the best of Boka is often found in its smallest, least polished villages.
The bay by size
Residents by settlement, 2023 census
The walled town in every photograph of the bay has 562 residents on the 2023 count. The fishing village looking straight at it has 578 — more people than the Old Town.
Who is still here
Population change by settlement, 2003 to 2023
Every settlement on this shore lost people in twenty years; Muo lost one in seven. The walled town lost most of all — the 2023 count draws its boundary tighter than 2003 did, so treat that bar as a caution, not a collapse.
Who visits Montenegro
Share of foreign overnight stays, 2025
MONSTAT · 2025
What things cost in Muo
Village prices, summer 2026. Nothing in Muo charges admission: the swimming, the lane and the view are free.
Census population, Muo municipality
Down a seventh in twenty years: 677 people in 2003, 578 in 2023. Fishing built every house on this lane — the villagers paid for their church with a percentage of what the catch sold for — and the rooms above the mula fill in July instead: in the summer months the head count at least doubles.
Muo is recorded in the ninth century, and by the 1260s the villagers had a parish church of their own, two hundred metres uphill from the water. The oldest document naming the place in the Kotor archive is a notarial deed of 1326, for the sale of a vineyard. What the village is known for happened later, and to one man. Widths are to scale.
Kotor Diocese parish history; Historical Archive of Kotor holdings on Muo.
A day on the far bank
The crowds are across the water, not on this lane
Meanwhile, in 1810
Venice, 10 January 1810: Pavao Krilović of Muo — Brother Gracija to the Augustinians — had been dead three hundred years. He fished here, shipped out as a sailor, heard a friar preach in Venice in the summer of 1468, and never went back to sea.
Muo — Antun Janković, a seafarer from the village, arranged the passage of the body across the Adriatic. It was laid in the old church of Sts Cosmas and Damian, two hundred metres up the slope from the houses.
The village — these were French years on the bay. Under the administration of 1807–1813 Muo held a municipality of its own, and stayed one until 1941; a report by its own municipal head counted 490 people here in 1824.
Today — he lies in a silver sarcophagus in the church the village built by the water in 1864, patron of fishermen, sailors and workers. Leo XIII approved his cult in June 1889; Muo keeps his day on 9 November.
“This custom, once known in other places of the diocese, has survived unbroken to our own day only in Muo — a place proud of its fishing tradition.”
Boka News, on the blessing of the sea
Reported at the parish of Our Lady Help of Christians, where on Pentecost the congregation walks down to the riva and the parish priest dips a wooden crucifix in the sea three times.
“A silver votive in the shape of a palamida, given to the church straight after the Muljani netted a catch of palamida unheard of until then.”
Share Montenegro, “Sav taj bokeljski soul”
A nineteenth-century thank-offering, and the village’s own monument to fishing; palamida is reckoned to match tuna for the quality of its meat.
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Muo lies directly across the water from Kotor, on the western shore of the innermost bay. It is about 2 km from the old town by road around the head of the bay, and the whole village faces Kotor's walls and the mountain behind them.
A single line of stone houses along the shore, most with their own steps into the water, and almost no through traffic. It is a fishing village that never became a resort, and it stays residential even in August.
It is one of the better choices around Kotor: quiet, cheaper than the old town, walkable in twenty-five minutes and with the best view of Kotor there is — the walls lit up at night, seen across the water from your own doorstep.
Yes, from the concrete quays and steps along the front rather than from a beach. The water is deep and clean, and locals swim here all summer. There are no facilities, which is part of why it stays quiet.
A handful of family konobas along the waterfront, most of them fish-led and cheaper than their equivalents inside Kotor's walls. In season it is worth reserving; several have only a few tables on the quay.
Prcanj is a short walk further along the shore, Kotor is across the water, and the road up to Lovcen begins on the other side of the bay. Boats can be hired locally for the run out to Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks.
No — the nearest is Tivat Airport (TIV), 10 km away by road.
From about 13 °C in February to 25 °C in August. It holds above 22 °C from June to September, which is the swimming season. Regional normals from the Bar station, not a city-precise reading.
2.1 km by road, about 4 min by car.
The UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) has no advisory against travel to Montenegro; it last reviewed its guidance on 13 August 2026. That is their assessment of the country as a whole, not ours and not a judgement about Muo, so read it yourself before you travel. The emergency number in Montenegro is 112.
MayOur Lady Help of Christians, and the blessing of the sea — 24 May: the patronal feast, with the image of Our Lady carried along the main street and the riva. The blessing of boats and nets follows on Pentecost — the only parish in the diocese where the rite never lapsed
SepSts Cosmas and Damian — 26 September: the titular feast of the old church up the slope, consecrated in the 1260s
NovBlessed Gracija’s day — 9 November: the village’s own feast, sung in the church that holds his sarcophagus
The local plate
Guljoči come out of the stone shelters along the shore: dark, slippery, ugly on the slab and first-class in the pan. Older Muljani still bait from the mula late at night and pull the hooks in at dawn, and their wives fry them. No restaurant in the village puts them on a menu.
Where A Muo kitchen, if you are lucky enough to be invited into one. The konobas on the riva grill the day’s catch instead.
Muo in numbers
2023 census — 677 people lived here in 2003
first recorded then; the oldest document naming Muo is a deed of 1326 for the sale of a vineyard
Sts Cosmas and Damian, two hundred metres up the Vrmac slope, and the parish church on the riva
stone berths built in front of the houses — more of them than anywhere else in the Boka
the shore road from the Muo riva to Kotor’s Sea Gate, half an hour on foot
Tivat, a quarter of an hour by road
MONSTAT 2023 census (Muo settlement) · Kotor Diocese parish history · Historical Archive of Kotor · road distances measured on OpenStreetMap
The shape of the bay
Towns at their true positions; the water drawn as a ribbon
Schematic — not a nautical chart.
A few hours
An hour of working village, with the walls of Kotor in front of you the whole time.
One full day
Sleep in Muo and spend the day in Kotor — the walls are half an hour along the shore.
The riva
Best for the single waterfront lane: terraces a few metres above the sea, Kotor straight ahead
Above the coast road
Best for the older houses on Vrmac’s foot, up the stepped path towards the old church — quieter, and a climb
The Prčanj end
Best for the north of the shore: further from Kotor’s traffic, on the walking corridor
Škaljari, the Kotor end
Best for where the shore road meets the town — shops, the main road, and the shortest walk to the Sea Gate
Best time: May · June · September
| Place | By road | Driving |
|---|---|---|
| Kotor | 2.1 km | about 4 min |
| Prčanj | 2.6 km | about 5 min |
| Dobrota | 6.1 km | about 12 min |
| Stoliv | 7.4 km | about 15 min |
| Budva | 23.1 km | about 31 min |
| Podgorica | 73.3 km | about 1 h 33 min |
| Žabljak | 154.3 km | about 3 h 14 min |
Road distances routed over OpenStreetMap data, © OpenStreetMap contributors. Driving times are free-flow and take no account of summer traffic or a queue at the ferry ramp.