
The name Zelenika means something close to 'the green one', and the town earns it — subtropical gardens, agave and palms, dense oleander along the walls, most of it planted in the Austro-Hungarian decades when this was a port of some consequence. The centrepiece of that era is the railway station of 1901, terminus of the narrow-gauge line that ran up to Herceg Novi and onward toward Bosnia and Dubrovnik until it closed in 1968. Stretches of the old track bed still make a level, shaded walk above the houses, and the stone villas along it have aged well.
From a third-floor balcony the view is out across the mouth of the bay, which is busier than it looks: ferries, fishing boats and the ships working their way in toward Kotor, with the Croatian headland of Prevlaka on the horizon to the northwest. The beach is around two hundred and fifty metres downhill, and restaurants, cafés and supermarkets are scattered within the same short radius. Herceg Novi, with its old town, fortresses and long seafront promenade, is a few minutes away by bus for evenings that call for more than the village offers.
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