
A hundred metres from the Old Town walls, the day arranges itself around the stone. Budva's medieval core is a compact triangle of lanes on a rocky spur, small enough to cross in five minutes and dense enough to keep surprising you: three churches on a single square, a Venetian-era street plan, an archaeological museum holding Greek and Roman finds from beneath the streets outside, and the Citadela at the point with the riviera spread below the ramparts. Through July and August the squares serve as open-air stages for the Grad Teatar summer festival.
The swimming is just as close. Ričardova Glava, the little crescent immediately under the walls, is the convenient option; Mogren, reached by a narrow path cut along the cliff face past the Avala headland, is the better one, with two pebble coves and clear deep water. East of the marina the promenade follows Slovenska plaža for a couple of kilometres past bars, showers and hired shade, then continues over the low ridge to Bečići. Restaurants inside the walls are aimed squarely at visitors; those a street or two inland are where the fish costs less and the tables turn over more slowly.
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