
Look inland from Djenovici and the wall behind the coast is Orjen, the limestone massif separating the bay from the Herzegovinian interior and rising past 1,800 metres. It is why this shoreline is so sheltered and so green: the mountain catches enormous winter rainfall, then releases it slowly through springs, and the coast below stays mild enough for palms and citrus while the summit holds snow into spring. Walkers head for the marked routes climbing from the villages above Herceg Novi onto the high karst plateau, and the road up behind the coast opens a view down the whole outer bay.
The bay itself has been UNESCO-listed since 1979, recognised as a cultural landscape rather than simply scenery, for the captains' houses, the churches and the layered Venetian, Ottoman and Austrian building along its shores. Djenovici is a modest example of the same thing, a village of stone houses about a hundred and sixty metres from the water and seven kilometres from Herceg Novi's old town, where the fortresses and stepped streets tell the story more loudly. Tivat airport is roughly twenty-two kilometres away and Cilipi near Dubrovnik around thirty-two, unusually short transfers whichever side of the border you fly into.
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