
Nikola Đurković square is the hinge of central Herceg Novi — an open terrace of pale stone with the town's cultural centre on one side, cafés under awnings, and steps falling away towards the sea. Around it the old core is dense and vertical: lanes barely wide enough for two, staircases instead of streets, and sudden gaps where a view of the bay opens between two houses. The green market is a couple of minutes away and is the best argument for cooking at home here — mountain cheese, olives, figs, tomatoes and whatever came out of the bay that morning.
Everything else in town radiates from this point. The Sahat Kula gate leads down through the old walls towards Forte Mare and the water, a short descent below; the Kanli Kula fortress above stages summer concerts in its open-air amphitheatre. The Pet Danica promenade runs from the foot of the town in both directions, west along Topla to Igalo and east past Savina, and the harbour is close enough to hear the boats start up. It is a busy address in July and a very quiet one in November, which is part of the appeal.
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