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From the slope above the coast road, Igalo lays itself out below: red roofs, the flat sheet of the bay, and the far shore where Montenegro meets Croatia. It is a five minute walk down to the sea and about the same to the middle of Igalo, on the kind of stepped, garden-lined streets that gave the wider Herceg Novi area its reputation as a town of stairs. Going up takes longer than coming down, which is the trade for a terrace with a view over the bay entrance.
What sits within reach is straightforward. The beaches and the seafront promenade are at the bottom of the hill, with cafes, bakeries and a market close by. The rehabilitation institute and its mud and thermal treatments anchor the centre, open through winter as well as summer. Follow the promenade east and you reach Savina monastery among its cypresses, then Herceg Novi's old town with Forte Mare and the market square. Head west along the coast road for quieter swimming around Njivice, or inland into the green Sutorina valley. In autumn the gardens on this hillside fill with pomegranates and mandarins and the sea stays warm well into October.
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