
Stoliv is really two villages. The lower one sits on the water on the quieter western side of the bay, a line of stone houses, boat sheds and palm trees along a road that carries very little traffic. The upper one, Gornji Stoliv, is several hundred metres above it and largely abandoned: a stone path climbs to it through the chestnut woods that are the village's signature, past roofless houses and an old church, and the reward at the top is an uninterrupted view down the length of the bay.
Those chestnut forests are why people come here in autumn, when the crop is gathered and roasted. In summer the appeal is simpler: almost nobody about, deep water off the rocks, and a view of the mountains opposite that changes all day. The coast road runs north through Prčanj to Kotor, about a quarter of an hour by car, and south towards the Verige narrows and Tivat. It is a good place to stay if you want the bay without the cruise-ship timetable.
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