
A hundred metres above the water on the Prčanj hillside is about the right height for this bay: high enough to take in the whole sweep of it, from the narrows at Verige to the point where Kotor's fortifications climb the grey rock, and low enough that the sea is a walk down stone steps through olive and fig terraces. Traffic on the shore road below is a distant sound. What you notice instead are church bells across the water and ships turning slowly in the channel.
Prčanj itself is a long, quiet waterfront village of captains' houses with swimming ladders, a handful of konobas and an outsized hillside church that took over a century to build. Kotor's Old Town is a quarter of an hour around the shore, and the medieval core — cathedral, museums, the stairs to the fortress — is best walked early or late. Over the ridge lies Tivat, with the airport and the yacht quays of Porto Montenegro, and at Lepetane a ferry crosses the narrows in a few minutes, cutting the drive to Herceg Novi and the open-sea beaches. Out of season the hill is close to silent, and that is when this side of the bay is at its best.
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