
Living against the town walls changes the rhythm of the day. Inside Budva's Stari Grad there are no cars, so mornings begin with delivery trolleys on the flagstones and church bells over the roofs, while the harbour below fills with boats getting ready to leave. The lanes are narrow enough to stay cool at midday, and every few turns opens onto a square, a stone doorway with a Venetian lintel, or a gap with the sea in it.
The compact core holds three churches on one seaward square, the Citadela with its terrace over the water, and a museum of Greek, Roman and Illyrian finds dug from under these same streets. Ričardova glava, a small beach, sits directly outside the southern wall, and the cliff path from there reaches the coves of Mogren in about ten minutes. Restaurants inside the walls range from tourist standard to genuinely good; look for the ones serving buzara and fresh fish rather than long international menus. In the evening the squares become festival stages and everything you need is within a hundred paces.
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