
Waking on Velika plaža is quite different from staying in Ulcinj town. The beach faces south-east, so the sun comes up straight out of the sea over an unbroken line of sand, and the early hours belong to walkers, horses and the occasional fisherman before the first bars open. The strip is flat and open — dunes, tamarisk and reed behind, shallow water in front — and the breeze that builds each afternoon draws kitesurfers to the stretch further down.
Development along here is low and spread out, with parking, playgrounds and green space rather than a built-up front, which suits longer family stays. Restaurants on the beach road grill what came out of the water that morning; further south-east, where the Bojana river meets the sea at Ada Bojana, the stilt restaurants serve river fish and mussels and stay open late. Inland lie the Ulcinj salt pans, out of production since the 2010s but now among the most important bird sites on the Adriatic flyway, with flamingos regularly on the shallow water. Ulcinj's Old Town, market and the sheltered bay at Mala plaža are a ten-minute drive north-west when you want streets instead of sand.
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