
The Bojana splits in two a short drive south of here and wraps around Ada Bojana, a triangular island of sand, pine and reed that is the strangest and best known corner of the Ulcinj coast. Its outer shore faces the open sea; its river channels are lined with wooden houses on stilts, many of them restaurants where the fish is taken in nets lowered from the terrace — sea bass, eel, mullet, grilled and served with polenta and chard. The island has been a naturist resort since the 1970s and parts of it still are, though the beach bars and restaurants are open to everyone.
Donji Štoj, where you are staying, is flat, green and quiet: gardens, pines and sandy lanes behind the middle kilometres of Velika plaža, with the sea a short walk or cycle away. The wind that funnels along this coast in the afternoon has made the beach a kitesurfing centre, and schools run through the summer. Inland, the lagoons of the old salt works are a protected wetland with flamingos and hundreds of other species passing through on migration. Ulcinj's fortified Old Town and harbour, about fifteen minutes north, supply the history and the evening promenade when a day of sand and river fish is not enough.
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