
Veljka Bogojevića faces the Old Town across the water, which gives this address the best of Ulcinj's views without the climb: fortress ramparts, the bay, and the coastline running north all in one frame. Three hundred metres away is Tampiko, a small part-sand, part-rock beach with a bar and a swimming platform — the sort of place that fills with locals rather than coach groups. Shops and a bus stop sit within a hundred metres, so the whole stay can be done on foot.
Cross to the Old Town and you are in a fortified quarter rebuilt in turn by Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans, now holding a museum, a former church that became a mosque, and restaurants set against the parapets. Below it Mala plaža fills the town's sandy bay. Ulcinj's tennis courts are a few minutes further out, and the shore path ties the whole lot together. For a change of scale, a bus or a short drive reaches Velika plaža and its long flat sand to the south-east, or Valdanos and its olive terraces to the north-west. Evenings tend to stay local: grilled fish, a walk along the water, and the fortress lit up across the bay.
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