
Half a kilometre back from Velika plaža, this is the flat, semi-rural side of Ulcinj: sandy lanes, market gardens, olive rows and low houses spread out behind the dunes, with the Old Town six kilometres off rather than overhead. The trade-off is space. The beach here is wide enough that even in August you can walk five minutes and find sand to yourself, and the shallow water makes it forgiving for children and for anyone learning to kitesurf in the afternoon breeze.
A shop sits a couple of minutes away and a bus stop within a few hundred metres for the run into the centre, where the green market, the fortress and the sheltered bay at Mala plaža are. Otherwise this end of the coast is best explored by bike: the road behind the beach runs south-east toward the Bojana and Ada Bojana, past the vast Ulcinj Salina, a former saltworks that has become one of the Adriatic's key bird sites, with flamingos, pelicans and thousands of waders on migration. Family-run restaurants a short walk away cook domestic food, and evenings on this side of town end early and quietly.
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