
Marka Vojnovića threads through the upper Old Town, in the band of stone houses between the fortresses where Herceg Novi is at its most self-contained. Small galleries and craft workshops occupy ground-floor rooms along these lanes, and two churches stand a short walk apart — the Orthodox church of the Archangel Michael on Belavista square and the Catholic church of St Jerome near the old market — a reminder of how many rulers and communities passed through in six centuries.
Being inside the walls means traffic noise never reaches you and everything is done on foot, mostly by stairs. Kanli Kula, the Ottoman fortress above, is used all summer as an open-air stage; Forte Mare below sits directly over the sea. The harbour is a few minutes down the steps, and from it boats leave for Žanjice, the Blue Cave and longer runs up the bay to Perast and Kotor. Winter is when the old core shows its other face: empty lanes, wood smoke, cafés running on regulars, and konobas turning towards slow-cooked meat and fish soup instead of the summer grill.
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