
Eight hundred metres out of Kolašin on the Mateševo road, the ground lifts just enough for the view to open toward the Tara valley and the ridges beyond. The town below is compact and unpretentious, a couple of squares, a scattering of the old timber and stone houses that northern Montenegro builds, cafes where the ski instructors sit out the off-season, and a small market selling what the surrounding villages produce: sheep cheese, kajmak, honey, raspberries, blueberry juice and dried meat.
What draws people is everything within an hour of it. The two ski centres, Kolašin 1450 and Kolašin 1600 on the flank of Bjelasica, run from roughly December to March and swap to hiking and mountain biking in summer. South, the road follows the Morača canyon in a sequence of tunnels and cliff drops to the 13th century Morača monastery, whose frescoes are among the best preserved in the country. North, the Tara canyon opens up for rafting and the Durmitor peaks stand behind it. Closer still, Biogradska Gora protects one of Europe's last stands of primeval forest around a dark glacial lake. Kolašin sits above 900 metres, so evenings stay cool even in August.
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