
Five kilometres out along Cetinjski put, the city thins into a fringe of houses, gardens and workshops with the karst hills rising ahead. This is the old road to Cetinje, and it is the reason to be on this side of Podgorica: it climbs out of the Zeta plain in a series of long bends and reaches the former royal capital in about forty minutes. Cetinje is a small, cold-in-winter town of embassies turned into museums, a monastery holding the relics of Saint Peter of Cetinje, and King Nikola's modest palace.
The same road continues into Lovćen National Park, where a switchback drive and a long flight of steps lead to Njegoš's mausoleum on Jezerski vrh, with the whole country laid out below — the Bay of Kotor on one side, Skadar Lake and the plain on the other. Going the other way, central Podgorica is ten minutes downhill, with its riverside paths, terraces and galleries. Having parking on this edge of town is worth more than it sounds: you skip the centre's congestion entirely and reach the coast, the airport and the northern mountains without ever crossing the city.
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