
This is northern Montenegro rather than the coast: the Tara valley at the foot of the Sinjajevina massif, with Bjelasica's rounded summits across the water and pine, spruce and open pasture in every direction. Mojkovac is a small working town with a serious place in Montenegrin memory, the battle fought here in 1916 commemorated every January, and its real value to a visitor is position. Biogradska Gora National Park is under ten kilometres away, its glacial lake sitting inside one of the last primeval forests left in Europe, with marked trails leaving the shore for the ridges above.
The Tara canyon deepens a little downstream, and rafting trips through the gorge run from spring into early autumn, the same season that suits walking up to the katuns, the summer shepherds' settlements on Sinjajevina where the cheese, kajmak and lamb on local menus actually come from. Winter hands the area over to snow, with the Bjelasica ski slopes above Kolašin around half an hour away by road and Durmitor and Žabljak beyond the canyon to the north. Podgorica's airport is roughly a hundred kilometres south, most of that distance through mountain country worth taking slowly rather than fast.
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