Thirty metres from the sea and fifty from the nearest shop is the kind of geometry that makes self-catering in a village genuinely pleasant. Djenovici has what a household needs within a short walk, including markets, a bakery and fish that arrives with the boats, and the rest is worth a short drive. The Herceg Novi green market is the regional one: figs and grapes in August, pomegranates and mandarins later, sheep's cheese, honey, olive oil pressed along this coast, and prosciutto brought down from Njegusi on the mountain behind Kotor.
For eating out, restaurants sit along the shore in both directions, and the bay's specialities are worth ordering deliberately. Mussels and oysters are farmed in the inner bay, sea bass and dentex come whole off the grill, octopus is cooked slowly under the sac, and the crisp white Krstac travels down from the Podgorica plain. The swimming is directly below the house, from concrete platforms and small pebble bays into water that stays warm into October. Herceg Novi and its promenade are seven kilometres west, Tivat and Porto Montenegro about half an hour east, and the Kamenari ferry crosses the narrows for anyone heading down to Budva without the long way round.
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