
At the far end of Velika plaža, where the sand runs on towards the mouth of the Bojana, the coast turns wild. Low dunes, tamarisk and reed give way to pine, the beach bars thin out, and on a weekday in June you can walk a kilometre with only wading birds for company. The sea shelves so gently that you can stand a long way out, which is why this shore has been a family bathing beach for generations — and why the shallow, wind-raked flats have made it Montenegro's kitesurfing centre, with schools setting up along the sand from May and a dependable afternoon breeze.
Behind the beach lies the flat Ulcinj plain, market gardens and the wide lagoons of the old salt works, now one of the most important bird sites on the Adriatic flyway: flamingos, herons and pelicans among some 250 recorded species. Ada Bojana, the triangular island where the river splits before reaching the sea, is a short drive on — a place of wooden fish houses built over the current, where the local way to eat is whole grilled sea bass or eel with polenta and chard. Ulcinj's Old Town and harbour are twenty minutes back up the road when you want stone lanes instead of sand.
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