
Ten minutes downhill and you are at the sea; five minutes more and you are inside the Old Town gate — that is the geography of this corner of Liman, close to the centre without sitting in the middle of it. The lanes here are residential, shaded by figs and vines, quiet by midnight even in August, and the walk down to Mala plaža takes you past the harbour where fishing boats and small excursion craft tie up.
Ulcinj's fortress town is the reason many people come. Its walls have stood on the headland for more than two thousand years, and inside them are the Balšić tower, the museum in the old bishop's palace, a building that has served as both church and mosque, and a square that once held one of the Adriatic's slave markets — a hard piece of history the town does not hide. Beyond the walls the coastline splits into two characters: rocky, deep-water swimming north past Liman towards the Valdanos olive grove, and the long dark sand of Velika plaža to the south. Food follows the same divide, with grilled fish and buzara near the harbour and Albanian-influenced pastries and sweets in town. Late September is arguably the best time to be here — the sea still warm, the beaches back to half empty.
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