
Five kilometres inland from Ulcinj the coast road gives way to the Ulcinj plain — flat, fertile ground planted with vines, olives, pomegranates and figs, worked by families who have been on it for generations. This is quiet agricultural country: rows of vranac and krstač, stone sheds, tractors on the lane at dusk, and the long Rumija ridge closing the view inland. Wine has been made in this corner of the country for a very long time, and staying among the vineyards comes with its calendar — flowering in May, harvest in September, the press running into October.
The sea is still only minutes away. Velika plaža and its dark sand run along the coast below, with the lagoons of the old salt works lying between the fields and the shore, where flamingos and herons feed through spring and autumn. Šasko lake sits further inland in its reed beds, one of the richest bird sites in Montenegro and worth an early start. Ulcinj itself — the fortified Old Town on its rock, the harbour, Mala plaža — is a quarter of an hour back towards the coast, and the Bojana river with its wooden fish restaurants about the same in the other direction. Table food here leans on what grows nearby: olive oil, sheep cheese, lamb, river eel, figs still warm off the tree.
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