
Montenegro's southernmost town is also its most distinctive. Ulcinj has been inhabited for well over two thousand years, and the fortified Old Town on its headland shows the whole sequence in one place: ancient foundations, Venetian stonework, Ottoman minarets, and lanes now holding museums, small galleries and restaurants. Below the walls, Mala plaža curves in a tight bowl of dark sand with bars along its back, and the promenade above it is where the town gathers in the evening.
South of the centre the coastline changes completely. Velika plaža runs for around twelve kilometres of flat, fine sand with water shallow enough to walk far out into, and behind it lie the lagoons of the old salt works — a wetland of international importance where flamingos, pelicans and hundreds of other species stop on migration. Further on, the Bojana river splits around Ada Bojana, an island of pine and sand known for wooden restaurants built over the water and for some of the best kitesurfing on the Adriatic. Inland, Šasko lake and the olive terraces around Valdanos make easy half-day trips. Ulcinj is also the warmest part of the country: the swimming season stretches from May into October, and even the shoulder months stay mild enough for long days outdoors.
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