
At the northern end of Dobrota the houses thin out and the settlement gives way to Ljuta, where a short, very cold river drops out of the mountain and reaches the sea within a few hundred metres of its source. This is the quieter half of the shore. There is less traffic, more garden wall than pavement, and the water is calm enough that mussel and oyster rafts float offshore in the sheltered inner bay, supplying the konobas along this stretch of coast.
That shellfish is the thing to eat here, usually treated simply: mussels opened in white wine, garlic and parsley, oysters raw with lemon, fish straight off the grill. With a mooring in front of the house, the bay itself becomes the road. Perast lies a short way north along the shore, its baroque palaces facing the islets of Our Lady of the Rocks and Saint George, and the coast road carries on past it towards Risan. Kotor's walls are the other direction, close enough for an evening out and far enough to leave the crowds behind.
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